【玉融文化】福清古早主食“大麦糊”
<section style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-wrap: wrap; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; line-height: 0; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 534.828px; height: auto;"></section></section><p><br/></p><section style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-wrap: wrap; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); display: flex; flex-flow: row; justify-content: flex-start; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: auto; min-width: 10%; flex: 0 0 auto; height: auto; align-self: flex-start;"><svg viewbox="0 0 1 1" style="float:left;line-height:0;width:0;vertical-align:top;"></svg></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: auto; flex: 100 100 0%; align-self: flex-start; height: auto;"><section style="margin: 20px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: center; transform: translate3d(-17px, 0px, 0px);"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 20px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px; text-align: justify;"><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">据到过鲁、豫、苏、皖四省交界京杭大运河沿岸的朋友介绍，那里有一道称为“糁汤”的独特地方美食，是用碾成颗粒状的大麦糁子和骨头汤同熬，风味殊异，鲜香可口。当年乾隆皇帝下江南时，喝了此汤大加赞赏，问当地人这叫“啥”？皇帝金口玉言，当地人遂叫此汤名为“啥”，即沿至今日的同音词“糁”（sá）汤。</p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">朋友的话，让我不由得回味起儿时常吃的一种福清地方饭食——大麦糊。</p><section style="margin: 16px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: center;"></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-indent: 0em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></section></section></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-wrap: wrap; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 0em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">（一）</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">与糁汤相比，大麦糊的原料就大麦和番薯钱两样，十分简单而廉价。不过大麦要事先加工为“糁子”，福清话称为“大麦秣”。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">加工大麦秣的办法和磨制小麦粉不同。先要把大麦粒放在石舂臼中，用石锤舂去麦皮成为大麦仁，再将大麦仁放在石磨中磨成糁子。磨大麦仁的石磨磨心还要特别掂高一点，这样磨出的糁子才能形成小颗粒状。只有碾成颗粒状的大麦糁，才能煮出又香又糯具有特别口感的大麦糊。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></p><section style="margin: 0px 0px 16px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; text-align: center;"></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-indent: 0em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">煮大麦糊的番薯钱也有讲究，最好是红心的“稻头薯”切出的番薯钱。“稻头薯”不似早薯那样在春天扦插，生长期达七八个月，而是在早季稻收割之后，利用稻茬再种一季番薯，生长期较短，长出的番薯更细嫩些。而且一般作为“稻头薯”的品种也不一样，多数是选用红心番薯，这种番薯品种含糖分高，纤维又少，吃起来尤为甜糯。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">作为大麦糊食材之一的红心番薯钱加工方法也很讲究，要横着切，切出的一片一片的番薯钱好似银圆，是货真价实的番薯“钱”。我想，福清人把晒干的番薯片称为“番薯钱”，该不是来源于这种片片成圆似钱的样子吧？</span></p><p style="margin-top: 16px; margin-bottom: 16px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-indent: 0em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">食材选好之后，烹煮大麦糊的方法也还有讲究。善于烹煮福清农家饭食的主妇们从长期操作实践中得出十分宝贵的经验，她们先将半鼎水烧到半滚，趁热汤下番薯钱。将番薯钱煮到八成熟，此时再把用适量清水浸泡过的大麦秣慢慢倾倒，调进滚汤中去。调大麦糁子时，速度不能太快，这也是她们从千百次的实践中摸索出来的——因为只有这样，鼎里的汤才能一直保持微滚的状态，这样煮出的大麦糊才格外可口。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 0em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">（二）</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">福清人善煮大麦糊，是有自然和历史缘由的。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">众所周知，旧时福清缺水多旱，土地瘠薄，水稻不蕃，只能生长耐瘠耐旱的大麦之类杂粮。清乾隆版《福清县志》“谷之属”载：“麦，《广雅》：大，麰也；小，也。”</span></p><p style="margin-top: 16px; margin-bottom: 16px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-indent: 0em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">记得小时候，每年谷雨、立夏前后，大麦就先于小麦黄熟，此时恰是“三九五月粮尾”时节，家家户户的米缸空了，薯钱也所剩不多，大麦恰逢其时地成熟登场。这时节，几乎各家各户的主食都是大麦糊。每到饭点，成年男子们一个个都一手顶托着一大“溪缸”大麦糊，一手拿着箸，列阵似地跍在埕塍上，稀里哗啦地喝着大麦糊，成为那季节的乡村一景。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">福清有句流传甚广的俗语，“香薯肥米健，大麦糊救命”。春末夏初、青黄不接之时，大麦糊，这个古老而又简朴的主食，确实成为了当年多少福清老小续命的“稻草”啊！</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 0em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">（三）</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">从今日科学饮食的角度来看，大麦糊不仅是旧时粮尾时节的续命饭食，更是一种难得的健康食品。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 16px; margin-bottom: 16px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-indent: 0em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"></span></section><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">大麦是一种粗粮，所含蛋白质、膳食纤维远比稻米高；番薯又是联合国推荐的最佳蔬菜之一，其营养价值很高。二者优优结合，在食品界的位置，应大大高于米面之类常食的细粮。大麦糊值得恢复和推广。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">世事变迁，物产更易。人们的日常饮食也随着发生重大变化。近些年，福清乡村农家已经很少种麦，种大麦的就更罕见了。因之，以往作为粮尾续命的大麦糊，淡出了餐桌，淡出了人们视野，让自小舌尖尝惯了大麦糊的笔者，又多了一种莫名的怅惜。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">不久前，一次朋友聚会餐饮时，饭店别出心裁地将大麦糊作为甜点捧上宴席，让我享受了一回久违了的惊喜，也勾起了儿时的记忆。可惜，饭店的大麦糊只有牛目大小的一小盅，远远无法纾解我的大麦糊瘾，吃完了一盅，又向服务员讨要了一盅，早把桌面的鸡鸭鱼肉之类忘得一干二净。</span></p><p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-indent: 2em; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></span></p><hr style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; border-style: solid; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); transform-origin: 0px 0px; transform: scale(1, 0.5); box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-indent: 0em; text-align: right; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; font-size: 14px;">作者：严家梅，福清市首批社科专家</span></section></section><p><br/></p><p><br/></p><link rel="stylesheet" href="//www.fqlook.cn/source/plugin/wcn_editor/public/wcn_editor_fit.css?v134_n3m" id="wcn_editor_css"/> 世事变迁，物产更易！
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